Across the stone patio, a pair of sweet blue eyes blinked at
me in question, patient and content, and on the inside I felt the exact
opposite—a frenzy of confusion and hopelessness.
It was
a beautiful day in Munich, Germany and I sat outside of a small café after our
travelling choir had performed that morning, lost in the chatter of my adopted
roommates and the small birds that flitted from table to table around us. I was
lost in the city, in the beauty, in the jet lag, when my friend, Katlyn,
sitting next to me leaned in.
“Emily,
I think that man is trying to talk to us,” she said. I looked past her to my
right, and sure enough, at the table next to us there was a small, elderly
German man looking directly at the five of us and speaking clearly in German.
We all shifted our attention and asked him if he could please repeat himself,
we hadn’t heard. He continued speaking in German for a few seconds, and then
paused with the distinctive lift of a question.
“Sorry,”
I said. I fumbled for some bit of German. “No sprechen sie Deutsche.”
The man
nodded with a bright smile, yet continued to speak in German, now setting down
his newspaper and leaning forward. Confused, we glanced at one another, unsure
of how to continue. My friend Bailey shook her head, repeating, “I’m sorry. We
don’t speak German. No Deutsche. American.”
At
this, the man’s eyes lit up and he sat all the way forward in his chair. He had
abandoned all thought of his pork schnitzel on the plate in front of him, and
was focused on his new American friends.
“America??
Why?” he said. We all looked at one another and tried to piece together what
exactly he was asking us. He stared enthusiastically and glanced from one of us
to the next. I assumed he meant what most people we had talked with meant: why
are we visiting their country?
“We’re
in a choir. We sing in a group,” I said. I waited. The expression on his face
remained the same. A bright smile, big eyes, eagerly awaiting a response.
“Music, we sing music. In your cathedral, Munich Cathedral.” My voice grew
higher, trying not to offend this man with my lack of German knowledge. He
clearly did not understand a word of what came out of my mouth, and the panic
set in. I was the ultimate tourist at that moment, lost in a culture I didn’t
understand and unsure where to go from there. I had no idea how to explain to
this man what I was doing in his country or to communicate anything at all to
him. I looked across the table and saw the same helpless worry in my friends’
eyes, and before we knew it we were laughing and she began to sing. We sang two
complete pages of Ave Maria in three part harmony for this man, pointing at the
Cathedral in the distance and gesturing to our uniform polos and braids that we
had done on the bus that morning, saying internally, We match. We’re a group.
He
looked delighted. That was well and good, but he still didn’t understand a lick
of what we were trying to communicate. He patted his shoulder, and began to
speak again. In German. Again. He seemed very intent on telling us whatever
this message was. He looked blissfully happy, but we could see a tear began to
slip onto his cheek. At the end he nodded. “Schwester,” he said. “Meine
schwestern.” He stared at us with less intensity now, more familiarity.
“Schwestern,”
I repeated. “I’m so sorry. But we don’t speak German. No sprechen sie Deutsche.
We don’t understand, sir. I’m so, so sorry.”
“Excuse
me?” a man from a different table got up and walked over. “I hear that you
don’t understand. He is saying you look like his sisters. When he was young.
Zopfe. The hair, how you have done. He says his sisters have the same.” With
this, he patted the old man on the shoulder and returned to his seat. The
elderly man nodded, having grown very quiet and solemn.
“Sister,”
he nodded. “Zopfe.” He made the braiding motion with his hands and patted his
shoulder again.
Thinking
back, I think to that man, we were his sisters. I think he spoke to us in
German because to him, we represented something like home to him, we were
Germany to this man and not America. This interaction, although brief, made me
realize that it doesn’t matter what language you speak to someone. We made an
impact on this man, and he made an impact on us. By the end of our lunch, we
might not have understood this man’s words, but we understood him and his
country more deeply than we could have from any sort of museum or tourist
pamphlet.
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